October 23, 2020

How to make an Earth resonance device

Earth resonance devices are similar to a device first described by Dr. John Milewsky, to create what was later called MEOW water—magnetite-enhanced ormus water. Although Dr. Milewsky and others used magnetite sand, the authors of Dancing with Water have found that high-quality paramagnetic sand (with a µCGS rating of 8,000 or above) works even better. Paramagnetic materials amplify the resonant frequencies of the Earth known as ELF (extremely low frequencies) or the Schumann resonances; they also amplify the infrared wavelengths from the Earth and the Sun . Both frequency bands have been shown to bring molecular structure to water.* Paramagnetic sand creates a gentler magnetic field than magnetite; it is more suited for water. However, both materials can be mixed (six parts paramagnetic sand to one part magnetite) for a nice balance between the two. The authors of Dancing with Water have created a unique blend they call their Earth resonance blend, which also includes quartz sand (an amplifier tuned to the resonance of the Earth), garnet sand (highly paramagnetic as well as crystalline, to support water’s developing crystalline array), and mica (known to energize and amplify biomagnetic fields ). This combination brings coherent molecular structure to water; it attracts hydrogen, and it spins ormus elements that are present in the water, into their high spin state. Earth resonance (ER) devices make amazing ormus-enhanced water (when additional ormus elements are added to the water). When water is allowed to sit in an ER device for an extended period of time (several days), it acquires an exceptional smoothness and biocompatibility that are unequalled. It is much like the once-famous water from Japan’s magnetic mountain.
*For more information and references see pages 101-103 in the Second edition of Dancing with Water.

Make an Earth resonance (ER) device, similar to the ones pictured here.
1. Select a glass or ceramic vessel for your water. For this application, a cylindrical vessel is best. This facilitates the easy removal and replacement of the vessel in the enclosure. Dark vessels are ideal but not essential; they protect the water from direct light (water is best stored in darkness – see pages 82-83 and 111 in the Second edition of Dancing with Water).
2. Select (or make) two cylindrical enclosures. One of these (outer) will house the paramagnetic sand or blend; the other one (inner) will hold the water vessel. Cardboard or glass enclosures are better than plastic or metal. (Plastic interferes with water’s electromagnetic field, and metal dampens the effects of the magnetics ). The size of the enclosures is largely determined by the size of your water vessel. The outer enclosure should be at least 1.5 inches larger in diameter than the inner cylinder to allow for enough paramagnetic sand to interact with the water (3/4 inch or more all around). The smaller enclosure should fit the water vessel snugly without being too tight so that the water vessel can be easily removed. The inner cardboard cylinder is best when it is at least an inch taller than the outer enclosure. Ideas for outer cylinders are oatmeal containers and glass vases. These work well because they have a bottom . If you use an oatmeal box, you may want to reinforce the bottom so that the weight of the sand does not cause the bottom to fall out. You can also use shipping tubes cut to the desired length, and make a bottom. Ideas for the inner cylinder include smaller shipping tubes and poster board which can be used to make your own inner cylinder that fits your water vessel (see step 3-C below).

A) If you are using an outer cylinder with a bottom, the process is simple. Place the inner cylinder with the water vessel inside it, inside the outer cylinder – then fill the area between the cylinders with paramagnetic sand or a blend. Hold the inner cylinder carefully while you add a small amount of sand all the way around to get the inner cylinder evenly positioned. You may want to use silicone to adhere the inner cylinder to the bottom to make it more sturdy for adding the sand. You may also want to make your own orgonite base to fit inside the inner tube for the water vessel to sit on. This enhancement is nice; it adds additional energy protection for the incubating water, but is not essential.
B) If your outer cylinder does not have a bottom you can create one using a ceramic plate or an orgonite charging plate. Using silicone (ideally, select a brand that does not include mold inhibiting chemicals) seal the outer tube to the plate. Allow at least 24 hours for the silicone to dry before adding sand, then fill with sand as in 3-A above.

C) If you cannot find a shipping tube that matches the diameter of your water vessel, you can make one out of poster board. But because poster board is not as rigid as a cardboard tube, it is necessary to wrap your water vessel with a layer or two of poster board before making the actual inner cylinder. This will make the water vessel larger in diameter and compensate for the slight amount of compression that will occur as sand is poured around the less rigid inner cylinder. After you have wrapped your water vessel with poster board, make the inner cylinder by wrapping poster board around the water vessel (now with extra layer of poster board taped around it). Flatten the poster board out again and make a crease at the bottom end 3/8 to ½ inch in depth. Cut triangular sections out of this crease, so that when the crease is folded at a 90 degree angle and rolled around the water vessel, it can be adhered neatly to the base (as shown). Re-roll the poster board around the water vessel and tape it closed. Remove the water vessel (with its layer of poster board) and tape the inside of the cylinder for additional reinforcement. Adhere it with silicone to the center of whatever base you have chosen. Allow 24 hours for the silicone to cure before adding sand as in 3-A above. Be sure to leave the additional layer of poster board around the water vessel until after you have added the sand. This insures that after slight compression, the water vessel will still fit inside the home-made inner cylinder.
4. Cap with a stone sphere, a cork, or other natural material rather than a plastic or metal lid.
5. Add other enhancements as desired. Use any or all of the suggestions below:

  • Laminar crystal contains many elements in the ormus state. When it is placed in water, ormus elements are awakened, and hydrogen in the ormus state is drawn into the water from the atmosphere. Laminar crystal objects can be used by themselves or in conjunction with an ER device to awaken ormus and enhance water.
  • ANCHI Crystals also awaken ormus elements—even more rapidly than laminar crystal. They can be used by themselves or sprinkled on the top of the paramagnetic blend in an ER device.
  • Tensor Rings have a paramagnetic value of about 18,000 µCGS, as determined by Phil Callahan. They can be used by themselves or with an ER device to awaken ormus and to protect the incubating water.

Click here for other ideas on using the paramagnetic blend 



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